tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63585406004352371022024-03-14T07:26:30.537+01:00Mélissa Le Nevémélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.comBlogger86125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-88022060101959835282014-02-10T14:53:00.001+01:002014-02-11T09:07:45.898+01:00Warm heart of Africa<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;"><br /></span>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">When I was a child, I dreamed about travels, freedom and emancipation. Exploring the world is something I have aspired to from an early age and my passion for climbing gave me this opportunity. When we travel, we find ourselves in a different environment unique to each place. We learn to interact with the people we meet and get accustomed to their values and local means of communication. In fact adapting and learning is what travelling is all about for me. For a few years now I have traveled the world with this craving for discovery and I must admit that my trip to Malawi profoundly changed me. This is my story.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">It all started last year, with the dream of a friend who wanted to film an exploratory trip to Southern Africa. He located a huge amount of rock in Malawi which seem to hold a lot of potential. After discussing with him and looking at the place on Google Earth, I decided to accepted joining the adventure: a year later we are a team of passionate including two camera operators: Benjamin Rueck (USA), Scott Noy (GER/South Africa), Haroun Souirji (BEL), Julie La Guigne an me (both from FRA). Coming from all around the world we met in Malawi's capital city: Lilongwe. The trip started in a great way: Ben had no luggage and no crash pad, lost during the transit... Like they say... This is Africa. We decided to leave the capital and head south towards Mount Mulanje.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">When we arrived at destination, we were first impressed by the thousand meter high Chambe face, looking even more impressive with the endless flat lands at its bottom. Lying under the face... thousands and thousands of boulders. Unanimously we decided that this would be the first boulder field we would explore. It is a very special feeling to visit a place where no boulderer has been. A massive playground, beautiful lines, tall ones... day after day we discover and develop a tiny portion of an expanding potential. But what really touched us was being confronted to the extremely poor local population. We hired a guide to help and explain to us the local situation in a nearly perfect English. Dozens of orphan kids, some sick, would follow us everywhere we would go. Round and deep blacks eyes, like little coffee beans telling us "What are they doing?". We once walked down just me and ben and at each humble brick house 10 more kids would start following us. When we reached the car, we lost count and the kids were asking us for help... "give me bottle", "give me money"... they would eachother for a bottle... this is when we fully realized the extreme level of poverty they were living in.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">A week running from one boulder to another, brushing, removing loose rock and climbing gorgeous lines that were chosen among many others. Ben chose to project a vertical seam and I fell in love with an 8m high orange face. Crimpy and very technical (check the video!).</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">After a week making fun of Ben's brown t-shirt "Ben is still all in", we head to the capital to get his stuff then meet the rest of the crew at the second stop of our exploration. Complete change of setting: Mangochi lies on the shore of the giant lake. The population seems much more surprised to see us as we are some of the very rare non Malawians to visit the town. Unlike in Mount Mulanje where we were obviously seen as tourists, in Mangochi were the people really wondering what was the reason of our visit.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">The actual boulder field lied behind a boy's catholic seminary. As we got closer, a hill covered with an overwhelming amount of rock started to appear. In no time, I was ecstatic with only one thing in mind: run everywhere! We all looked at each other and we obviously all feeling the same way. So we asked for the permission to enter the land and started to wander in this granite labyrinth. What first surprised us by the state of the vegetation around us. The locals burnt the ground to hunt rodents. The rock was a beautiful orange granite but unfortunately some of it was burnt and made crumbly. This made for some intense cleaning. But honestly there is a real potential to develop a beautiful area. Easy access, thousands of boulders and beautiful lines. Did we just reach a nature's gem? I think so! And we not alone to think that. Dozens of baboons occupied the place and shared the playground with us.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">Ben was still in luck and after the first hour... cut his index deeply when grabbing a leaf while walking... shouting "what else nature? what else?!". There were boulders everywhere and everything was climbable. We started developing but I was looking for a special line, a 5 star line. After a few days, Ben set his sights on a spider filed crack inside a cave and I walked further in the bush in search of the gem. Walking south of the seminary I stumbled on the line I was looking for: a beautiful boulder shaped like a wave and standing on another boulder, like sitting on it's throne. I brushed it and quickly saw it was possible... the moves were beautiful and the holds were small... very small... like tiny shark teeth! After trying it I realized it would be very hard with the conditions. I tried everything but one move would go.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">Ben was fighting bravely on his project, despite the deep cut in his finger, and ended also being one move away from sending it ... Ben and his hydrogen peroxide bottle left the cave with no luck. This leads me to an anecdote: Scott and me were at home and he was very thirsty. He took the nearest water bottle and drank what was left in it in one go... which was actually hydrogen peroxide. He came near me and told me with big eyes "what did I do?". Each new day came with a surprise in this incredible place. We discussed about social issues with a surprisingly open minded priest or competed at coconut harvesting with neighborhood kids. After a week full of surprises it was time to head to our third and last destination, feeling a bit disappointing leaving so much unfinished business. We had a rendez-vous with someone living in Cape Maclear and we did not want to be late... The kids came for goodbyes and I left with a big smile on my face.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">Through our eyes it was only a giant boulder, 10m high at its lowest point. It has a perfect feature in the middle where we instantly saw a possible line! We grab the kayaks and I go first. The rock was infested with little black spiders. I climbed carefully but unfortunately a first hold broke. As we tried we would get higher and higher but I broke the last hold that would allow us to reach the top... I had to jump down. We ended up only 1.5m from the top. I did not want to abandon the line and tried other potential holds but there was no solution.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #585b69; font-family: ff-tisa-web-pro, Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 36px;">This is my story. But it's not an easy thing to put in words such an intense and long trip. This journey touched me deeply... the exchanges and the things we witnessed. In a time in my life when I am rethinking many things I faced a reality in Malawi, that of people living with barely nothing. One of my most beautiful trips in a wild Africa but also an Africa of kind and generous people</span></div>
mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-84583273343462299572013-09-23T23:47:00.002+02:002013-09-24T20:54:15.793+02:00summer expedition in Malawi !<div style="text-align: justify;">
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"Sometimes when you predict for a long time that a big storm in your life is coming to you.. don't go to a shelter and wait that the storm will end. Just go outside and feel the rain on your skin and the wind blowing on your face.. feel the cold inside of your bones..."</div>
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That was my mentality this summer to have the chance to face a life experience and I think it gave me the opportunity to learn and grow up as a person.</div>
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My inspiration in life in general is based on this common sentence : "do and share what you love ; love and share what you do". My passion for climbing has given me a lot of opportunities to travel around the world, meet a lot of people who share the same passion as me but also be confronted to other ways of thinking and other civilizations. </div>
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This Summer I went to a "new climbing destination" where nobody has ever really developed climbing over there : Malawi ! It was more than developing a new area with an incredible amount of rocks, it was an absolutely incredible life experience ! It's really exciting to go on a place where actually nobody were really for climbing ! Such an overflow of rocks and the recurrent questions : which area you will explore tomorrow and which nice lines you will brush and climb next. Add to the exciting part of discovering a new place for climbing, there is all the adventure : being in a total different country with totally an other way of living. TIA : This Is Africa !<br />
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About the climbing aspect and the different locations we went, I can't really reveal it because articles should go out in magazines and the movie beginning of next year. But I give you a clue : 3 locations in the south of the country ! ;)<br />
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Anyway it was the nicest and most crazy climbing trip i have made so far yet. A country where everything over there is a new thing to resolve and the communication with the local population is tricky.<br />
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But I understand now this expression : "the warm heart of Africa". When you see a smile shining, huge bright smile on children even if they conditions of life aren't easy at all. When they share everything they have even if it's almost nothing.. So many poor people.. so many disease..<br />
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So.. stay tuned !! you will here more about Malawi soon !<br />
And for waiting, some general pictures about the trip.<br />
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mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-26003514339957426472013-05-20T15:06:00.002+02:002013-07-01T17:08:32.058+02:00Keep smiling and enjoy climbing !How to start the 2 past weeks I have lived ?! Just maybe with this sentence which give a sens in what I live in this period of my life : "keep smiling and enjoy climbing".<br />
So two weeks ago I had to come back in France, in aix en provence, to pass my exams. There I really realized how much I like my actual life and how I was just lucky to live all this.<br />
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Then I went to Fontainebleau for an event organize by the FFCAM and in partnership with Petzl : CAMP 4. About 60 teenagers from all the country came with their club to participate at this event. It was all about to discover more about the bouldering, the prevention, how to spot, the respect of the forest and of course meeting new passionate people and share our passion. I had an amazing day in the forest!<br />
Sharing and enjoying climbing with this really motivated climber, was a great experience ! They have so much energy ! :) That was also really nice to meet again all the Petzl team : tony, Florence, Loic, Christophe and Alex !<br />
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So after that my batteries wer full recharged in Energy and i was really motivated to take part at the Boulder world cup in Slovenia. A mix between a lot of motivation, energy, challenge, fun and happy to express myself ! I have done there my first podium of the year : a lot of fun and a great fight !! 2nd place !! :)<br />
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I think I get a clue of the way I like to express myself in competition : just a conception of the competition more based on the pleasure, the fun and the show. Like that I just appreciate the comp so much whatever is the result and I allow me to only be focus on the action ! </div>
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It was also a lot of fun this week end in front of an home/friend crew. And i enjoy a lot climbing in final in the innsbruck world cup with my friend jule and anna! big congrats for Jule for her first victory !! :)</div>
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A special thing with this move on the first boulder problem in the final. I lived this thing in slow motion ... it was unreal... I slided at the same time right hand and foot... i was thinking oh oh ... shit... and fighting so hard on my left hand to stay in the wall.... hearding the crowd screaming an low hooooooo... and i just stayed in the wall.... !!! WOW :)<br />
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mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-66915411980409117162013-04-18T10:59:00.001+02:002013-04-18T10:59:34.282+02:00The Tierra Boulder Battle 2013 : Stokholm, for ever !Enjoy this nice video made by sandstone media, a good show, a nice week end... what else ?<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ofKVSwHQ4K0" width="560"></iframe>mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-88316191345804420572013-03-11T22:19:00.000+01:002013-03-11T22:19:25.583+01:00Hueco that's rock<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The first time I have heard about this place it was long time ago when I started climbing. At this time, It appeared being the best place in the world so far for bouldering. When I started to travel to discover some amazing place, this one was in my mind but for a couple of years I wasn't so motivated to go cause of the mountains of restrictions around climbing in the park which make you feel not so free...</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">This time was definitively perfect with a "gewaltig" team (left to right) : Hannes alias Spielberg, Elias, Kilian, Anna, me and Jacopo.</span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); text-align: justify;">.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Three months before, Anna spent hours and hours in the phone to book and organize all our climbing days in the park. And without that it will have been really more complicated... We have been waiting only two times at the gate and that was way enough ! Elias was in the middle of the closed road, tried to film this epic moment and the ranger just came and said "get out of the road, it's dangerous ! If you don't move I call the police ! !" Achtung, you go to jail ! ;) So just a really big thanks to Anna !</span><br />
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El Paso is one of the biggest pass to go to the US from Mexico. Juarez for one part and El Paso for the American part. It really appears like this city has been built by all the Mexican who got into the US. It's a huge city but just build with the closest services as it's possible : mexican or american fast food each hundred meter, Walmart and Compagnie ! A gold medal to Karl's Jr with the best guacamole burger ever ! ;)<br />
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">So there was not so much to do for the rest days but way enough to climb! 3 mountains of high concentration of boulder problem : "free" entrance for north mountain and guided tour for east and east spur</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">2 and half week of bouldering in the middle of the desert with a high motivation of our team, going everywhere and trying to climb everything! Our rhythm was an intensive concentration of burrito : for breakfirst, to take away and at el pasito (mythic Mexican restaurant).</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I really enjoyed to climb with Anna, the way how we were supporting each other, the motivation we created and how we shared and expressed it. It's definitely hard to express it in English for me but there is just a simple word : friendship. For one point, it's for this kind of moment I love climbing. Sharing that with people you care.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="text-align: justify;">Unfortunately, Jacopo injured once again his finger... I hope he will recover it pretty soon...</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">After a really stressed flight back to France, I stayed one week in Paris to compet for the French selection and the french championship. "Chose faite !" I'm really happy to come back at innsbruck and start the international competition !</span></span><br />
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Couple of picture to show you a bit the ambiance in the desert !<br />
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mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-67049673843499409492012-12-05T16:43:00.000+01:002012-12-05T17:16:35.457+01:00Petzl Roc trip in Argentinia !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: justify;">After a loooong time on the road/plane/rock, browsing some incredible place, I finally land in France and have the time to tell you a bit about the last incredible adventure rich in experience I lived in Argentinia during the Petzl Roc Trip !</span><br />
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After a month spent in RRG, where I was really happy to rich some of my goals (50 words for pumps / Southern Smoke ) but left some others.... I took the plane direction South America : Buenos Aires. Typical city of south America, hudge, cosmopolite but at the same time poor, dangerous. I have heard some hard story about drugs corruptions and theft "Entonces siempre mirar a su mochilla !!" fortunetly nothing happened the few hours we were there. </div>
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So we had the time to hang out in the center and have a global view of colonials monuments like the famous "casa Rosa".</div>
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Argentines are living an hard time in this period... after the fall of the dictatorship 20 years ago, a big economic crisis following the devaluation of their currency (peso) in 2002 and the presidente who decide to change of politic and tends towards a conservative liberalism .... And when you feel positive vibe around you and always smiling face to deal with this, that make me happy ! happy to see that humane relation is always more important than this stuff. </div>
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The distance seems really far in Argentinia ! 2 hours in the plane direction Puerto Madryn, then 13 hours driving in the bus.... looooonnnggg drive to Piedra Parada ! The tent throw to the sand in the early morning and the dark hide everything around us !<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p84OOmljW3k/UL9exKRKVsI/AAAAAAAAB5U/0K__9Y8sf9I/s1600/_MG_0251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="432" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p84OOmljW3k/UL9exKRKVsI/AAAAAAAAB5U/0K__9Y8sf9I/s640/_MG_0251.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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When I woke up, I was choked about the beauty of this place : both desertic and mountainous. The river, this Rock towel alone in the middle of the field : la Piedra Parada ; and a canyon full of rock ! </div>
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In total, I was 6 days there, "ambiance Woodstock" in the middle of nowhere, where everything was really unique ! Thank you very much at all the team Petzl who worked really hard to make it real ! It was a big event as always ! "Viva los Petzl Roc Trip"</div>
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Sometimes the pictures are more easy to transmit the atmosphere... "place aux images" !</div>
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<br />mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-28406239363470532892012-11-06T02:49:00.001+01:002012-11-06T02:49:46.810+01:00"50 words for pump", project done !!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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2 days ago, I felt at the really last move where you can fall on "50 words for pumps" 8c+. First, I was really upset to be able to make such a big mistake but then I realized that I have jumped a step on my mind. The route became "maybe possible" to "really realizable". After my try, we went to an other sector, "chocolate factory"where Jacopo wanted to try "pure imagination". Adam was there too and he was waiting to try onsight "golden ticket". Before his try i talked a bit with him and he said "i feel good today, i gonna try golden ticket". Just before going, I felt really a lot of energy and excitation growing around him like an aura. He made an incredible try on it, fighting like i have never seen but i the same time really sure and determinate ! The few people who were there couldn't talk any more and just so much of positive energy was around Adam. That was really a huge lesson of climbing ! After that, i felt really a lot of motivation to try my best and give really all I can on my project.<br />
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The rest day was really hard... I was turning around and just get crazy always thinking about this route and this small two finger pocket... lol I can laugh about it right now !!<br />
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So yesterday, i felt really good and I fighted as hard as I could.... and I managed to don't fall and clip the chain on the first try of the day ! :) Incredible sensation of joy !!<br />
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<br />mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-64980908763000630572012-11-04T01:14:00.000+01:002012-11-04T01:14:37.574+01:00Middle trip, shape is here !!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Halloween in Miguel's place !</i><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Halloween is really a special moment in the US and it was really a funny experience to see the costums show at miguel's place !</span><br />
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After almost one week on rain, the sun came back and the mix good shape/mood with it ! Two days off of climbing let my skin breath again and i felt really good in this two days past ! I managed to onsight "Ultra Perm" on the Bob marley wall ! Such nice sensation and good condition ! It was really a lot of pleasure !<br />
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Yesterday was also really intense for me ! So crazy how you can miss something for nothing.... Two case yesterday : first on "Omaha beach"... a little hesitation cost me a lot... really close to a beautiful ascent on it<br />
second on 50 words for pumps... the worst one.... I couldn't fall higher...a millimeter of the jug, just before where you are absolutely sure you can't fall anymore....damn ! (almost afraid all the crag with my scream....sorry guys....).<br />
In addition, i made a nice hole on my ring finger ! That's the life of climber melissa ! ;)<br />
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<i>Just totally dead after this crazy attempt....!</i></div>
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<i>"Transworld depravity" 8b+</i></div>
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After a good rest day, trying to don't think about "50 words", so psyched to try again tomorrow if the rather will permit it !! The rather is stormy tonight.....</div>
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<br />mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-90737634522385244422012-10-27T20:47:00.001+02:002012-10-27T20:47:04.971+02:00RRG after one week !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ok, I definitely love the colors of the Gorges, just a view up about the inspiration that this place give me !</div>
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After one week in the Red, we begun to have our habits : the place to park, seeing the early climbers coming while we are drinking our capuccino !</div>
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We meet a lot of nice people, we climb and hang out with the "french team", that's actually the life in the Red ! A lot of fun and motivation, for sure !</div>
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This week was really hot for climbing, around 30°c and humid... not really the best conditions but I managed to give my best and Jacopo like a real "bread italian machine" crush almost everything he touched ! And me like a groupie, I was screaming from the bottom and while belaying, all the beta or just all the energy that i could give to him !!!<br />
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Really happy too, I managed to do my first project of the trip yesterday, "transworld depravity" 8b+ after a scandalous try : a big "zipette" after the crux...!! I found a new project that motivate me a lot, "50 words for pumps" 8c+. A boulder problem at the botttom following by a good resi section ! I have all the moves with high level of heat/humidity so...... let's see what happen !</div>
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The link of the update of jacopo : http://jacopo-larcher.com/2012/10/27/red-river-gorge-first-week/</div>
mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-21065356296661813992012-10-22T21:58:00.001+02:002012-10-22T21:58:18.106+02:00Our first step in Red River Gorges !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Red River Gorges is full of colour right now and of course full of climbing !</div>
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Our first two days, we went to the Mother Lode to get a bit of endurence !!</div>
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To get use to the style of the Gorges, we have done as much as on sight as possible. So came back with a lot of routes up to 8b ! Now, place to the next step !</div>
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Ooohhh....just an other details..... we get a huuuuuuuuuddddggggeee home place... ! ;)<br />
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<br />mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-79650476785459281572012-10-19T03:18:00.001+02:002012-10-19T03:44:32.161+02:00Un petit tour dans les Pyrénées<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This two weeks past, i went to a local festival, "les 24h du mur" in Oloron Sainte-Marie. Like usual, it was really a lot of fun and a lot of Climbing !!! For all the climbers who like climbing in a good ambiance and all the speciality of the south west of France.... They should test it !!!!</div>
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The concept : 24 hours of climbing and only the 5 best route you did to go to the final ! une voie ultime, tirer de botte de paille, du jurançon à gogo, un repas festif à danser sur la table l'hymne régional !!! :)</div>
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Espacially a lot of fun spent with Alizée, like always !! :)</div>
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Un grand merci aux organisateurs et en particulier à Claudy qui nous a hebérgé avec une grande gentillesse! </div>
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Not so far from Spain, we decided to go to Rodellar with two friends : Pollo y Gauth to see how look like the sector of la piscineta in Rodellar !</div>
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A really good week spent there, climbing "A Muerte" in this 55 meter wall ! Really nice Routes opened by Serge and Dani. At the end a good training for the following plan ! 5 route between 8a and 8a+ on sight and 3 8c/8c+ for Gauth El Grande Duc ! Pollo, master chef au billard !! ;)</div>
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Merc à vous deux pour votre soutien et vos tour de passe passe pour me remonter le moral quand il était au plus bas... la vie est pas toujours si facile !! </div>
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Les 2 Ducs rencontrant leur idole, Dani la machina !</div>
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such a beautiful area</div>
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you can see it !!</div>
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I had the chance also to meet Carlos, a photographer who took some picture of me in the different roote I did. Really nice picture thanks !! :) <span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">www.cpfotografia.com</span></div>
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Like a Rockstar.... ;) The adventure continue !! Place to the United State of Aaaammmeeericcaaa !! </div>
mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-7787770602478319832012-10-03T22:04:00.001+02:002012-10-03T22:04:30.058+02:00Vivid Landscape ! <iframe frameborder="0" height="213" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" nbsp="nbsp" p="p" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/50341218?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&color=6c5332" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="500"><br></p>
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There is the result of one month bouldering in South Africa, Rocklands ! I let you discover this great footage in high quality made by Haroun Souirji. "Une vrai perle ce film !"<br />
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Enjoy it !! And I really hope you will be motivated then to go there and have the chance to climb on this amazing rock, in an amazing place !<br />
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<br />mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-88234895559971398222012-10-03T21:42:00.000+02:002012-10-03T22:09:01.401+02:00fresh air with sport climbing and the Kalymnos climbing festival !!<br />
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In fact it was not so easy to write this post and at the end I really took my time... In fact, I didn't want to think again about plastic and competition after the World Championship... I needed holidays !! And after one week in the paradise, I finally jump over my bad feeling and I accept what happened and actually I can say that gave me a lot of energy and motivation for the future. We build on our personnal defeats ! After an end of season full of different emotions (4th in Munich, 2nd in Arco or the hard moment in Paris....), place for rope and sportclimbing !<br />
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So after the World Championship, I went to Kalymnos for the North face festival. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WjDTVhQchTE/UGyKY_qVdfI/AAAAAAAABtY/5RG6OrxJyfQ/s1600/14025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WjDTVhQchTE/UGyKY_qVdfI/AAAAAAAABtY/5RG6OrxJyfQ/s400/14025.jpg" width="400" /></a>It was my first time on the island and I was really surprised with the tone of amazing rock on this Island ! Rock, Rock, Rock... everywhere !! In fact, to be honest and before going on this island, I was a bit pessimist about the climbing you can find there but when I arrived there, I was just shocked !! And at the end of the trip I was just too sad to leave this paradise....</div>
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So, when Masha sent me an email to invite at the North face Kalymnos Festival, I was really motivated to go there. Jacopo went there a couple of times, to find and develop a new area for the festival. Simone and him did an exceptional job to propose new amazing routes. </div>
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In total, they opened around 25 routes, all really beautiful and one espacially incredible, "Jonas" (the picture down). It's funny, but the climbing was really close to some crags from the south of France, really different than the others crags already opened in Kalymnos. For the "PROject Competition", we had in total four routes still in project for the women and four for the men. It was so hot and the sun came around 11am....so... we had to wake up early... around 6am each morning !! But anyway the motivation was really there, so it wasn't so much a problem !</div>
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The ambiance was really relax and friendly, the rock even if it was new, was really good and the routes really nice !!</div>
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We climbed there "a muerte" until the blood ! :)</div>
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Climbing the morning, chilling the afternoon ! :)</div>
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A HUDGE THANKS to masha, simone, jacopo, all the organisators and north face to made it happen !</div>
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And a special thanks to Eneko to made me an "ippon" !! ;)</div>
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mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-54082216696657879512012-08-23T10:27:00.003+02:002012-08-23T10:27:43.598+02:00Training cession at café kraft, Nürnberg !<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/47890469?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&color=6C5332" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="500"></iframe><br />
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/47890469">Gimme 'Kraft' - following Sasha DiGiulian, Mélissa Le Nevé and Monika Retschy around the adidas Rockstars competition.</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/lowcutweb">hannes huch | lowcut</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-54703820847155447742012-08-18T15:19:00.001+02:002012-08-18T15:20:10.058+02:00adidas rockstars !!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After 3 weeks spent more or less around Céüse (even if it was more about training for the last competition than rockclimbing), I moved direction Germany !</div>
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First stop near nuremberg for a training cession at Café kraft with the five ten team. I was really happy to met the people from the gym and have the chance to climb in this nice gym, influenced by the master, Wolfgang Güllich ! By the way, they have the better cappuccino I have ever drunk ! Come soon a little video about the day !</div>
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Then direction Stuttgart to take part of one of the best competition of the year, Adidas Rockstars ! The only competition where climbing meet rock stars and where you can dance on the wall ! This year was specially a great success for the event (not for me in the competition unfortunetly...) ! That took place in Porsche Arena, a really famous place for all kind of big event in sport !</div>
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New wall, new volume especially made for the competition, international route setter, all the best athlete in the world in term of bouldering ! Everything was here to make a great show ! For my part the competition stopped in semi-final at just one place to enter in the final... 7e...That's the game... I would have the chance to test the super boulder one time !! I will come back next year to try it!</div>
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An other part of the rockstars was the competition for amateur and i helped to build the boulder of one of the finalist. It was a funny experience to try to build a boulder in the style of the slovenian girl. But was not so hard finally cause we had the same style soooo let's go for a run and jump ! </div>
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Now time to train in innsbruck for the last competition of the year ! Try to recover the shape and the mind of course to be ready at the right time !! </div>
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<br />mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-67931435822235938602012-08-08T18:08:00.002+02:002012-08-08T18:08:34.683+02:00South AfricaI just received some days ago, really nice picture from a friend I met in South Africa, Scott Noy. That remember me all the nice time I spend there with Jacopo, Scott, Steffen, Enzo, Ricky and other friends...<br />
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Salam Wave The beckoning</div>
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The Scorpion, such a nice boulder ! Scariest moment of the trip and actually i realized that when I have seen the face of Jacopo and Scott ! Ahahah ! nice swing !!!</div>
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Olifanthuis !! Was so impressed when I have seen all the food that ricky can eat.... yep you understood the four plates are only for Ricky !! good job!</div>
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One of my project of the trip : Tea with Elmary. Crimpy crimpy ! Done !</div>
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My biggest project ever : The Vice. So powerful and so close.... Still a project for me, have to come back again !</div>
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The Result of one of our walk expedition : "épique pancake" FA oohhh yeeaah !lol Nice arrête in Donkey land ! Thanks Steffen, Ricky and Enzo to find this place !</div>
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<br /></div>mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-16633325891657021172012-06-17T13:12:00.002+02:002012-06-17T13:14:12.507+02:00Welcome to South Africa !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I just arrived one week ago in south Africa but it seems like 2/3 days ago.... the time is going really fast here.... After many problems of plane/luggage, we have spent two days in Cape town. In the program : visit, visit, visit and chilling ! The town, table mountain, cape of good hope, eating ostrich and crocodile : what a wild life ! lol<br />
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After this two nice days in Cape town, we moved to Rocklands, 2 hours in the north of cape town. A lot of people already know the reputation of this place amazing for all the tone of rock there !</div>
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Since we arrived here, the time is going soooo fast ! The rock is really nice and it's again a really good pleasure to climb there ! Last time we didn't see all the "famous" sector so we decide to go to the place we missed and climb all we could for the first 4 climbing days. </div>
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I like so much this place, i feel really free, in peace..... I like to be there, walk and hear the nature growing.... it's really quite, without humans noise.... walking between the massive orange rock... </div>
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The last two days, we have been climbing to our project. I went one day in "the vice" and an other day in "amphitheater". Actually, I can say I'm really happy cause i have sent "amphitheater" really quickly and I think i can't find a boulder more in my style. We went sooo far in the wild to find this cool boulder and at least I was really happy to climb it. It's a really pure line ! For the Vice : after one day of remembering the beta, i finally checked all the moves yesterday.... it's going well for the next few days !! Hope to have a good news to write soon!<br />
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<br /></div>mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-46431160483674577192012-05-25T13:52:00.001+02:002012-05-25T13:58:57.924+02:00Wild one the movie<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="224" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/42113210?autoplay=1" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="398"></iframe><br />
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I had the opportunity and the chance last sunday, to take part at one of the first screenings of this beautiful film. It was really interesting too see Philippe in this movie searching himself, his origin, the meaning of his life. It's a film about the handicap of course but not only... it's about research of oneself, sharing. And I think we can be inspired by this film and what it conveys to us. Thank you Philippe !<br />
So if you have the opportunity to see it, don't hesitate !<br />
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<br />mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-75762329640364430652012-05-25T11:25:00.000+02:002012-05-25T11:25:01.351+02:00Innsbruck, almost home sweet home !<br />
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What a great week end just past in innsbruck for the 4th World cup ! I think this picture can recap it well ! Great organization, nice boulder, awesome public !</div>
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The marktplatz was full of friends and innsbrooklins people for the final and it was a really intense moment ! The show was their for the final ! </div>
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About the girl's problems : a final little bit easier than the others, i think, but more stressfull ! Still hard when you know that you have to flash the problems. I just regret one thing that i didn't understand nothing in the second boulder .... but it's always like that, you have ever something that you can regret. Anyway it was really a lot of fun and i was really happy to take part of this comp !</div>
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Here we say VIEL SPASS !!!</div>
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After a tough start to the season, I finally managed to express myself.... climb without pain and just be focussed on your climb... what a great thing !!!!!</div>
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AHAHAH !!!! Anna take a new kind of shower !! ;)</div>
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I'm in Innsbruck now since almost one month and i feel there almost like at home, "home sweet home !" I like the spirit of this town between the mountain, the spirit of the people, try to learn their language, try to speak with them.... hard hard !!!</div>
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Enjoy the Udo's Video !!!</div>
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<br /></div>mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-86571492482539290722012-05-17T12:48:00.002+02:002012-05-17T12:48:36.518+02:00China petzl roc trip le film !!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-88287953959766523262012-05-03T10:47:00.000+02:002012-05-03T10:47:19.479+02:00Udo report from slovenia !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-79250005168595665302012-05-01T15:42:00.000+02:002012-05-01T15:45:36.306+02:00First World cups !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Competition Time !!!!!!!!!!!!!<br />
China/Slovenia/Austria<br />
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The beginning of the season was pretty hard for me : after a big finger injury two month ago, i try to recover as well as possible ! Competition need a lot of energy and after three consecutive world cup including one in China : i feel so exhausted this few days.<br />
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I wasn't feeling very fit for the first three World Cup but the most important thing for me was to climb again without pain. </div>
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After a very bad competition in China, I managed to slip in the final in Slovenia and take along my place for the world championship in September. Unfortunately, all my energy left me in final and i have utterly failed to express myself in the boulders problems offered....</div>
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Reached the Viennese syndrome as every year, I finished 10th and dead tired !</div>
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I decide to stay in Innsbruck until the next world cup there, to train with the world class climber and of course spend good time with goofd friends there !! :) Zeit für deutsh lernen und sprechen ! Ya SICHER !!!<br />
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<br /></div>mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-71260057317435172872012-05-01T10:59:00.001+02:002012-05-01T10:59:30.020+02:00Trailer world championship PARIS BERCY !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I don't know if you have already seen this trailer about the world championship but you can see it as well now ! At least it was really funny and exhausted to do it : running everywhere in Paris ! Enjoy it !mélhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16355736262125504105noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6358540600435237102.post-62086446279543831322012-04-04T13:09:00.000+02:002012-04-04T13:09:06.219+02:00Championnat de France, Millau, 2012<div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigjim26000/7039281737/" title="Chps de France Bloc Millau 2012 de bigjim26000, sur Flickr"><img alt="Chps de France Bloc Millau 2012" height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/7039281737_d9bd6c0621.jpg" width="334" /></a> </div>After a long period without competition, come back on it ! And that until the middle of september where will take place the World Championship in Paris !<br />
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After some weeks spending my time recovering a finger injury, i started again on rock one month ago. And what a good feeling and a lot of pleasure to climb again and do what you want without pain !!<br />
Now let's achieve my multiple projects, trips and goal for the next months !<br />
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