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19 oct. 2012

Un petit tour dans les Pyrénées






This two weeks past, i went to a local festival, "les 24h du mur" in Oloron Sainte-Marie. Like usual, it was really a lot of fun and a lot of Climbing !!! For all the climbers who like climbing in a good ambiance and all the speciality of the south west of France.... They should test it !!!!
The concept : 24 hours of climbing and only the 5 best route you did to go to the final ! une voie ultime, tirer de botte de paille, du jurançon à gogo, un repas festif à danser sur la table l'hymne régional !!! :)
Espacially a lot of fun spent with Alizée, like always !! :)
Un grand merci aux organisateurs et en particulier à Claudy qui nous a hebérgé avec une grande gentillesse! 






















Not so far from Spain, we decided  to go to Rodellar with two friends : Pollo y Gauth to see how look like the sector of la piscineta in Rodellar !
























A really good week spent there, climbing "A Muerte" in this 55 meter wall ! Really nice Routes opened by Serge and Dani. At the end a good training for the following plan ! 5 route between 8a and 8a+ on sight and 3 8c/8c+ for Gauth El Grande Duc ! Pollo, master chef au billard !! ;)
Merc à vous deux pour votre soutien et vos tour de passe passe pour me remonter le moral quand il était au plus bas... la vie est pas toujours si facile !! 
Les 2 Ducs rencontrant leur idole, Dani la machina !
such a beautiful area
you can see it !!



























I had the chance also to meet Carlos, a photographer who took some picture of me in the different roote I did. Really nice picture thanks !! :) www.cpfotografia.com


























Like a Rockstar.... ;) The adventure continue !! Place to the United State of Aaaammmeeericcaaa !! 

3 oct. 2012

Vivid Landscape !



There is the result of one month bouldering in South Africa, Rocklands ! I let you discover this great footage in high quality made by Haroun Souirji. "Une vrai perle ce film !"

Enjoy it !! And I really hope you will be motivated then to go there and have the chance to climb on this amazing rock, in an amazing place !


fresh air with sport climbing and the Kalymnos climbing festival !!





In fact it was not so easy to write this post and at the end I really took my time... In fact, I didn't want to think again about plastic and competition after the World Championship... I needed holidays !! And after one week in the paradise, I finally jump over my bad feeling and I accept what happened and actually I can say that gave me a lot of energy and motivation for the future. We build on our personnal defeats ! After an end of season full of different emotions (4th in Munich, 2nd in Arco or the hard moment in Paris....), place for rope and sportclimbing !

So after the World Championship, I went to Kalymnos for the North face festival. 




It was my first time on the island and I was really surprised with the tone of amazing rock on this Island ! Rock, Rock, Rock... everywhere !! In fact, to be honest and before going on this island, I was a bit pessimist about the climbing you can find there but when I arrived there, I was just shocked !! And at the end of the trip I was just too sad to leave this paradise....
So, when Masha sent me an email to invite at the North face Kalymnos Festival, I was really motivated to go there. Jacopo went there a couple of times, to find and develop a new area for the festival. Simone and him did an exceptional job to propose new amazing routes. 

In total, they opened around 25 routes, all really beautiful and one espacially incredible, "Jonas" (the picture down). It's funny, but the climbing was really close to some crags from the south of France, really different than the others crags already opened in Kalymnos. For the "PROject Competition", we had in total four routes still in project for the women and four for the men. It was so hot and the sun came around 11am....so... we had to wake up early... around 6am each morning !! But anyway the motivation was really there, so it wasn't so much a problem !
The ambiance was really relax and friendly, the rock even  if it was new, was really good and the routes really nice !!
We climbed there "a muerte" until the blood ! :)


Climbing the morning, chilling the afternoon ! :)

A HUDGE THANKS to masha, simone, jacopo, all the organisators and north face to made it happen !


And a special thanks to Eneko to made me an "ippon" !! ;)

18 août 2012

adidas rockstars !!


After 3 weeks spent more or less around Céüse (even if it was more about training for the last competition than rockclimbing), I moved direction Germany !

First stop near nuremberg for a training cession at Café kraft with the five ten team. I was really happy to met the people from the gym and have the chance to climb in this nice gym, influenced by the master, Wolfgang Güllich ! By the way, they have the better cappuccino I have ever drunk ! Come soon a little video about the day !

Then direction Stuttgart to take part of one of the best competition of the year, Adidas Rockstars ! The only competition where climbing meet rock stars and where you can dance on the wall ! This year was specially a great success for the event (not for me in the competition unfortunetly...) ! That took place in Porsche Arena, a really famous place for all kind of big event in sport !

New wall, new volume especially made for the competition, international route setter, all the best athlete in the world in term of bouldering ! Everything was here to make a great show ! For my part the competition stopped in semi-final at just one place to enter in the final... 7e...That's the game... I would have the chance to test the super boulder one time !! I will come back next year to try it!

An other part of the rockstars was the competition for amateur and i helped to build the boulder of one of the finalist. It was a funny experience to try to build a boulder in the style of the slovenian girl. But was not so hard finally cause we had the same style soooo let's go for a run and jump ! 



Now time to train in innsbruck for the last competition of the year ! Try to recover the shape and the mind of course to be ready at the right time !! 









8 août 2012

South Africa

I just received some days ago, really nice picture from a friend I met in South Africa, Scott Noy. That remember me all the nice time I spend there with Jacopo, Scott, Steffen, Enzo, Ricky and other friends...

Skin problem.. Always !!


             Salam Wave                                                                                  The beckoning


The Scorpion, such a nice boulder ! Scariest moment of the trip and actually i realized that when I have seen the face of Jacopo and Scott ! Ahahah ! nice swing !!!


  Olifanthuis !! Was so impressed when I have seen all the food that ricky can eat.... yep you understood the four plates are only for Ricky !! good job!


One of my project of the trip : Tea with Elmary. Crimpy crimpy ! Done !


My biggest project ever : The Vice. So powerful and so close.... Still a project for me, have to come back again !


The Result of one of our walk expedition : "épique pancake" FA oohhh yeeaah !lol Nice arrête in Donkey land ! Thanks Steffen, Ricky and Enzo to find this place !


17 juin 2012

Welcome to South Africa !





I just arrived one week ago in south Africa but it seems like 2/3 days ago.... the time is going really fast here.... After many problems of plane/luggage, we have spent two days in Cape town. In the program : visit, visit, visit and chilling ! The town, table mountain, cape of good hope, eating ostrich and crocodile :  what a wild life ! lol




After this two nice days in Cape town, we moved to Rocklands, 2 hours in the north of cape town.  A lot of people already know the reputation of this place amazing for all the tone of rock there !
Since we arrived here, the time is going soooo fast ! The rock is really nice and it's again a really good pleasure to climb there ! Last time we didn't see all the "famous" sector so we decide to go to the place we missed and climb all we could for the first 4 climbing days. 
I like so much this place, i feel really free, in peace..... I like to be there, walk and hear the nature growing.... it's really quite, without humans noise.... walking between the massive orange rock... 




The last two days, we have been climbing to our project. I went one day in "the vice" and an other day in "amphitheater". Actually, I can say I'm really happy cause i have sent "amphitheater" really quickly and I think i can't find a boulder more in my style. We went sooo far in the wild to find this cool boulder and at least I was really happy to climb it. It's a really pure line ! For the Vice : after one day of remembering the beta, i finally checked all the moves yesterday.... it's going well for the next few days !! Hope to have a good news to write soon!