"50 words for pump", project done !!!

2 days ago, I felt at the really last move where you can fall on "50 words for pumps" 8c+. First, I was really upset to be able to make such a big mistake but then I realized that I have jumped a step on my mind. The route became "maybe possible" to "really realizable". After my try, we went to an other sector, "chocolate factory"where Jacopo wanted to try "pure imagination". Adam was there too and he was waiting to try onsight "golden ticket". Before his try i talked a bit with him and he said "i feel good today, i gonna try golden ticket". Just before going, I felt really a lot of energy and excitation growing around him like an aura. He made an incredible try on it, fighting like i have never seen but i the same time really sure and determinate ! The few people who were there couldn't talk any more and just so much of positive energy was around Adam. That was really a huge lesson of climbing ! After that, i felt really a lot of motivation to try my best and give really all I can on my project.

The rest day was really hard... I was turning around and just get crazy always thinking about this route and this small two finger pocket... lol I can laugh about it right now !!

So yesterday, i felt really good and I fighted as hard as I could.... and I managed to don't fall and clip the chain on the first try of the day ! :) Incredible sensation of joy !!

Middle trip, shape is here !!

Halloween in Miguel's place !















Halloween is really a special moment in the US and it was really a funny experience to see the costums show at miguel's place !

After almost one week on rain, the sun came back and the mix good shape/mood with it ! Two days off of climbing let my skin breath again and i felt really good in this two days past ! I managed to onsight "Ultra Perm" on the Bob marley wall ! Such nice sensation and good condition ! It was really a lot of pleasure !




Yesterday was also really intense for me ! So crazy how you can miss something for nothing.... Two case yesterday : first on "Omaha beach"... a little hesitation cost me a lot... really close to a beautiful ascent  on it
second on 50 words for pumps... the worst one.... I couldn't fall higher...a millimeter of the jug, just before where you are absolutely sure you can't fall anymore....damn !  (almost afraid all the crag with my scream....sorry guys....).
In addition, i made a nice hole on my ring finger ! That's the life of climber melissa ! ;)

Just totally dead after this crazy attempt....!

"Transworld depravity" 8b+

After a good rest day, trying to don't think about "50 words", so psyched to try again tomorrow if the rather will permit it !! The rather is stormy tonight.....

RRG after one week !

Ok, I definitely love the colors of the Gorges, just a view up about the inspiration that this place give me !

After one week in the Red, we begun to have our habits : the place to park, seeing the early climbers coming while we are drinking our capuccino !

We meet a lot of nice people, we climb and hang out with the "french team", that's actually the life in the Red ! A lot of fun and motivation, for sure !

This week was really hot for climbing, around 30°c and humid... not really the best conditions but I managed to give my best and Jacopo like a real "bread italian machine" crush almost everything he touched ! And me like a groupie, I was screaming from the bottom and while belaying, all the beta or just all the energy that i could give to him !!!

Really happy too, I managed to do my first project of the trip yesterday, "transworld depravity" 8b+ after a scandalous try : a big "zipette" after the crux...!! I found a new project that motivate me a lot, "50 words for pumps" 8c+. A boulder problem at the botttom following by a good resi section ! I have all the moves with high level of heat/humidity so...... let's see what happen !

The link of the update of jacopo : http://jacopo-larcher.com/2012/10/27/red-river-gorge-first-week/

Our first step in Red River Gorges !

Red River Gorges is full of colour right now and of course full of climbing !

Our first two days, we went to the Mother Lode to get a bit of endurence !!

To get use to the style of the Gorges, we have done as much as on sight as possible. So came back with a lot of routes up to 8b ! Now, place to the next step !

Ooohhh....just an other details..... we get a huuuuuuuuuddddggggeee home place... ! ;)

Un petit tour dans les Pyrénées

This two weeks past, i went to a local festival, "les 24h du mur" in Oloron Sainte-Marie. Like usual, it was really a lot of fun and a lot of Climbing !!! For all the climbers who like climbing in a good ambiance and all the speciality of the south west of France.... They should test it !!!!

The concept : 24 hours of climbing and only the 5 best route you did to go to the final ! une voie ultime, tirer de botte de paille, du jurançon à gogo, un repas festif à danser sur la table l'hymne régional !!! :)

Espacially a lot of fun spent with Alizée, like always !! :)

Un grand merci aux organisateurs et en particulier à Claudy qui nous a hebérgé avec une grande gentillesse! 

Not so far from Spain, we decided  to go to Rodellar with two friends : Pollo y Gauth to see how look like the sector of la piscineta in Rodellar !

A really good week spent there, climbing "A Muerte" in this 55 meter wall ! Really nice Routes opened by Serge and Dani. At the end a good training for the following plan ! 5 route between 8a and 8a+ on sight and 3 8c/8c+ for Gauth El Grande Duc ! Pollo, master chef au billard !! ;)

Merc à vous deux pour votre soutien et vos tour de passe passe pour me remonter le moral quand il était au plus bas... la vie est pas toujours si facile !! 

Les 2 Ducs rencontrant leur idole, Dani la machina !

such a beautiful area

you can see it !!

I had the chance also to meet Carlos, a photographer who took some picture of me in the different roote I did. Really nice picture thanks !! :) www.cpfotografia.com

Like a Rockstar.... ;) The adventure continue !! Place to the United State of Aaaammmeeericcaaa !! 

Vivid Landscape !

There is the result of one month bouldering in South Africa, Rocklands ! I let you discover this great footage in high quality made by Haroun Souirji. "Une vrai perle ce film !"

Enjoy it !! And I really hope you will be motivated then to go there and have the chance to climb on this amazing rock, in an amazing place !

fresh air with sport climbing and the Kalymnos climbing festival !!

In fact it was not so easy to write this post and at the end I really took my time... In fact, I didn't want to think again about plastic and competition after the World Championship... I needed holidays !! And after one week in the paradise, I finally jump over my bad feeling and I accept what happened and actually I can say that gave me a lot of energy and motivation for the future. We build on our personnal defeats ! After an end of season full of different emotions (4th in Munich, 2nd in Arco or the hard moment in Paris....), place for rope and sportclimbing !

So after the World Championship, I went to Kalymnos for the North face festival. 

It was my first time on the island and I was really surprised with the tone of amazing rock on this Island ! Rock, Rock, Rock... everywhere !! In fact, to be honest and before going on this island, I was a bit pessimist about the climbing you can find there but when I arrived there, I was just shocked !! And at the end of the trip I was just too sad to leave this paradise....

So, when Masha sent me an email to invite at the North face Kalymnos Festival, I was really motivated to go there. Jacopo went there a couple of times, to find and develop a new area for the festival. Simone and him did an exceptional job to propose new amazing routes. 

In total, they opened around 25 routes, all really beautiful and one espacially incredible, "Jonas" (the picture down). It's funny, but the climbing was really close to some crags from the south of France, really different than the others crags already opened in Kalymnos. For the "PROject Competition", we had in total four routes still in project for the women and four for the men. It was so hot and the sun came around 11am....so... we had to wake up early... around 6am each morning !! But anyway the motivation was really there, so it wasn't so much a problem !

The ambiance was really relax and friendly, the rock even  if it was new, was really good and the routes really nice !!

We climbed there "a muerte" until the blood ! :)

Climbing the morning, chilling the afternoon ! :)

A HUDGE THANKS to masha, simone, jacopo, all the organisators and north face to made it happen !

And a special thanks to Eneko to made me an "ippon" !! ;)