6 nov. 2012

"50 words for pump", project done !!!

2 days ago, I felt at the really last move where you can fall on "50 words for pumps" 8c+. First, I was really upset to be able to make such a big mistake but then I realized that I have jumped a step on my mind. The route became "maybe possible" to "really realizable". After my try, we went to an other sector, "chocolate factory"where Jacopo wanted to try "pure imagination". Adam was there too and he was waiting to try onsight "golden ticket". Before his try i talked a bit with him and he said "i feel good today, i gonna try golden ticket". Just before going, I felt really a lot of energy and excitation growing around him like an aura. He made an incredible try on it, fighting like i have never seen but i the same time really sure and determinate ! The few people who were there couldn't talk any more and just so much of positive energy was around Adam. That was really a huge lesson of climbing ! After that, i felt really a lot of motivation to try my best and give really all I can on my project.

The rest day was really hard... I was turning around and just get crazy always thinking about this route and this small two finger pocket... lol I can laugh about it right now !!

So yesterday, i felt really good and I fighted as hard as I could.... and I managed to don't fall and clip the chain on the first try of the day ! :) Incredible sensation of joy !!

4 nov. 2012

Middle trip, shape is here !!

Halloween in Miguel's place !

Halloween is really a special moment in the US and it was really a funny experience to see the costums show at miguel's place !

After almost one week on rain, the sun came back and the mix good shape/mood with it ! Two days off of climbing let my skin breath again and i felt really good in this two days past ! I managed to onsight "Ultra Perm" on the Bob marley wall ! Such nice sensation and good condition ! It was really a lot of pleasure !

Yesterday was also really intense for me ! So crazy how you can miss something for nothing.... Two case yesterday : first on "Omaha beach"... a little hesitation cost me a lot... really close to a beautiful ascent  on it
second on 50 words for pumps... the worst one.... I couldn't fall higher...a millimeter of the jug, just before where you are absolutely sure you can't fall anymore....damn !  (almost afraid all the crag with my scream....sorry guys....).
In addition, i made a nice hole on my ring finger ! That's the life of climber melissa ! ;)

Just totally dead after this crazy attempt....!

"Transworld depravity" 8b+

After a good rest day, trying to don't think about "50 words", so psyched to try again tomorrow if the rather will permit it !! The rather is stormy tonight.....