5 déc. 2012

Petzl Roc trip in Argentinia !

After a loooong time on the road/plane/rock, browsing some incredible place, I finally land in France and have the time to tell you a bit about the last incredible adventure rich in experience I lived in Argentinia during the Petzl Roc Trip !
After a month spent in RRG, where I was really happy to rich some of my goals (50 words for pumps / Southern Smoke ) but left some others.... I took the plane direction South America : Buenos Aires. Typical city of south America, hudge, cosmopolite but at the same time poor, dangerous. I have heard some hard story about drugs corruptions and theft   "Entonces siempre mirar a su mochilla !!" fortunetly nothing happened the few hours we were there. 

So we had the time to hang out in the center and have a global view of colonials monuments like the famous "casa Rosa".
Argentines are living an hard time in this period... after the fall of the dictatorship 20 years ago, a big economic crisis following the devaluation of their currency (peso) in 2002 and the presidente who decide to change of politic and tends towards a conservative liberalism .... And when you feel positive vibe around you and always smiling face to deal with this, that make me happy ! happy to see that humane relation is always more important than this stuff. 
The distance seems really far in Argentinia ! 2 hours in the plane direction Puerto Madryn, then 13 hours driving in the bus.... looooonnnggg drive to Piedra Parada ! The tent throw to the sand in the early morning and the dark hide everything around us !

When I woke up, I was choked about the beauty of this place : both desertic and mountainous. The river, this Rock towel alone in the middle of the field : la Piedra Parada ; and a canyon full of rock ! 

In total, I was 6 days there, "ambiance Woodstock" in the middle of nowhere, where everything was really unique ! Thank you very much at all the team Petzl who worked really hard to make it real ! It was a big event as always ! "Viva los Petzl Roc Trip"
Sometimes the pictures are more easy to transmit the atmosphere...  "place aux images" !

6 nov. 2012

"50 words for pump", project done !!!

2 days ago, I felt at the really last move where you can fall on "50 words for pumps" 8c+. First, I was really upset to be able to make such a big mistake but then I realized that I have jumped a step on my mind. The route became "maybe possible" to "really realizable". After my try, we went to an other sector, "chocolate factory"where Jacopo wanted to try "pure imagination". Adam was there too and he was waiting to try onsight "golden ticket". Before his try i talked a bit with him and he said "i feel good today, i gonna try golden ticket". Just before going, I felt really a lot of energy and excitation growing around him like an aura. He made an incredible try on it, fighting like i have never seen but i the same time really sure and determinate ! The few people who were there couldn't talk any more and just so much of positive energy was around Adam. That was really a huge lesson of climbing ! After that, i felt really a lot of motivation to try my best and give really all I can on my project.

The rest day was really hard... I was turning around and just get crazy always thinking about this route and this small two finger pocket... lol I can laugh about it right now !!

So yesterday, i felt really good and I fighted as hard as I could.... and I managed to don't fall and clip the chain on the first try of the day ! :) Incredible sensation of joy !!

4 nov. 2012

Middle trip, shape is here !!

Halloween in Miguel's place !

Halloween is really a special moment in the US and it was really a funny experience to see the costums show at miguel's place !

After almost one week on rain, the sun came back and the mix good shape/mood with it ! Two days off of climbing let my skin breath again and i felt really good in this two days past ! I managed to onsight "Ultra Perm" on the Bob marley wall ! Such nice sensation and good condition ! It was really a lot of pleasure !

Yesterday was also really intense for me ! So crazy how you can miss something for nothing.... Two case yesterday : first on "Omaha beach"... a little hesitation cost me a lot... really close to a beautiful ascent  on it
second on 50 words for pumps... the worst one.... I couldn't fall higher...a millimeter of the jug, just before where you are absolutely sure you can't fall anymore....damn !  (almost afraid all the crag with my scream....sorry guys....).
In addition, i made a nice hole on my ring finger ! That's the life of climber melissa ! ;)

Just totally dead after this crazy attempt....!

"Transworld depravity" 8b+

After a good rest day, trying to don't think about "50 words", so psyched to try again tomorrow if the rather will permit it !! The rather is stormy tonight.....

27 oct. 2012

RRG after one week !

Ok, I definitely love the colors of the Gorges, just a view up about the inspiration that this place give me !
After one week in the Red, we begun to have our habits : the place to park, seeing the early climbers coming while we are drinking our capuccino !

We meet a lot of nice people, we climb and hang out with the "french team", that's actually the life in the Red ! A lot of fun and motivation, for sure !

This week was really hot for climbing, around 30°c and humid... not really the best conditions but I managed to give my best and Jacopo like a real "bread italian machine" crush almost everything he touched ! And me like a groupie, I was screaming from the bottom and while belaying, all the beta or just all the energy that i could give to him !!!

Really happy too, I managed to do my first project of the trip yesterday, "transworld depravity" 8b+ after a scandalous try : a big "zipette" after the crux...!! I found a new project that motivate me a lot, "50 words for pumps" 8c+. A boulder problem at the botttom following by a good resi section ! I have all the moves with high level of heat/humidity so...... let's see what happen !

The link of the update of jacopo : http://jacopo-larcher.com/2012/10/27/red-river-gorge-first-week/

22 oct. 2012

Our first step in Red River Gorges !

Red River Gorges is full of colour right now and of course full of climbing !

Our first two days, we went to the Mother Lode to get a bit of endurence !!

To get use to the style of the Gorges, we have done as much as on sight as possible. So came back with a lot of routes up to 8b ! Now, place to the next step !

Ooohhh....just an other details..... we get a huuuuuuuuuddddggggeee home place... ! ;)